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A Cokin P007 720nm square Infrared filter. Cokin now only manufacture a round IR
filter, which will only work in its own slot next to the lens on strong targets. To use
this filter with the kit lens on small targets it is necessary to carefully cut or file two
small flats on opposite sides of the filter ring so it will slide into the square slots in the
holder.
Mount the holder onto the lens and fit the filter in the centre slot of the three square
filter slots in the holder (the slot nearest the lens is for a round filter). Set the camera
on automatic, no flash (that's the selector turned fully clockwise). Let the camera
autofocus through the filter. All other camera settings should be on automatic/default.
For best results the air temperature needs to be above 50 degrees F / 10 degrees C.
Shoot in daylight at right angles to or away from the Sun although the Sun does not
need to be shining. Good results can be obtained with the camera hand-held but
marginally better results might be achieved on small targets by mounting the camera
on a tripod/stand. The viewfinder must be kept covered either by the photographer’s
eye (hand held) or a black cover if tripod mounted.
Post process the images with
Arcsoft Photostudio (5.5) using the enhance
facility.
Please note: Canon have upgraded their sensor a number of times and Canon cameras
other than the two above may not work in the same way or at all for aura
photography. Also the internal IR blocking filter must not be removed.
The macro lens is optional for small targets or long distance but Sigma 105mm is the
recommended macro - most others have not been tested.
Can YOUR Digital Camera See Buried Treasure?
One of the most exciting recent developments in treasure hunting is aura photography
and among the most frequently asked questions is: can my model of camera see
auras? We know of a few cameras that definitely photograph auras and hope to add
others to our list from the vast number of makes and models out there, once we are
certain that they work. Meanwhile, here are some low cost ideas on testing your own
digital camera and please let us know if your camera can see buried treasure.
The basic requirements for testing are:
· A buried sample of either one ounce (30 grams) of relatively pure gold or two
ounces (60 grams) of relatively pure silver. By relatively pure we mean around
90% precious metal so 22 carat gold or sterling silver (92.5%) will be ideal but if
using 9 carat gold then you will need around 2.5 ounces (75 grams). Bury your
sample in open ground or a planter for at least 24 hours.
· Infrared filtering medium in the range 720nm to 1000nm. Digital cameras are
extremely sensitive to infrared radiation and have to be fitted with an internal
infrared blocking filter to prevent most infrared reaching the sensor. There is
much variation in the amount of external infrared filtering necessary to
photograph auras. Too little external infrared filtering produces false color
infrared photographs and too much filtering results in pitch black images. Auras
are photographed between false color and pitch black. The most reliable but more
expensive option for testing is to buy either a 720nm infrared filter, or a range of
filters, from a camera equipment supplier or Ebay. A minimal cost approach
would be to use the black leading ends from exposed processed color film, which
has infrared filtering characteristics (one sheet is approx 720nm; two sheets
approx 850nm and three sheets approx 1000nm). These are the film pieces that
were exposed to light (unless the film was loaded in a dark room, in which case
the leading end pieces will be clear) when the film was run out over the sprockets
during loading into the film camera. As most popular film is 35mm and some
lenses are larger, you may have to mount the film in a slide or between thin card
in which a suitable central aperture has first been cut.
· Fix your filter material in front of the lens (try snug fit and leaving an air/light
gap) then photograph your sample on a warm day, preferably above 13 deg. C / 55
deg. F with the Sun behind you. Adjust the level of filtering until you achieve a
dark image that you will need to process with enhance, fix or gamma increase
using photo editing software.
Cokin Infrared Filters
When I was first buying infrared filters, I was introduced to the Cokin Square filter
system by my local Jessops Camera Store and the holder with the square infrared
filter turned out to be ideal for aura photography, not only did it work well but the
ability to slide the filter easily in and out of its slot was a welcome bonus, when
framing a target. For some reason I placed the square filter in the centre slot of the
three slots available and as that worked that became my recommended filter position.
I was vaguely aware that Cokin also made a round infrared filter but didn’t take too
much interest until Bob, who was trying to replicate my system ended up with a round
filter instead of square and said that he couldn’t get it to work, presumably because
the filter fitted in its own slot next to the lens. After some discussion Bob trimmed his
round filter so that it would fit in the square slots as well as the round slot and that
produced some auras.
A little while later I had some correspondence with David who had repeatedly tried to
buy a square filter but ended up with round. There were several advertisements for
square filters in the UK so I attempted to obtain one for David and twice was sent a
round filter. Meanwhile I had been told by Cokin’s main agent in the UK that Cokin
no longer manufactured square infrared filters, only the round version. Apparently
this cut out the reflection between the external and internal filters which we actually
rely on to produce auras on weak targets with some lenses.
I have tested the round filter against the square filter and it fails to produce an aura,
when fitted in its own slot, with weak targets using the standard lens. However it can
be easily modified to fit the square slots, without interfering with its use in the round
slot and if so modified it produces exactly the same aura as the square filter when the
round filter ‘GLASS’ is in the very same position as the square filter.
As the round filter is stepped (the holding ring is 5mm or ¼ inch away from the
‘glass’) it can be fitted in two different ways in the last two slots furthest from the
lens. With the standard lens, the filter is most sensitive when it is fitted in the last slot
from the lens and orientated so the filter ‘glass’ is as far away from the lens as it can
be. If that position is too sensitive the filter can be moved to bring it closer to the
lens, where sensitivity will be reduced for each step closer to the lens. The round
filter seems to work in its own slot in low light conditions and when photographing
large targets.
Modifying the round filter
The object of the exercise is to make two flats exactly opposite each other so the filter
will slide into the narrower square filter slots – you only need to remove a tiny
amount of material. I used a Dremel type hobby drill with circular saw and grinder
for this but it should be fairly easy modification to make with a craft knife and/or fine
file. If you have a bench vice to grip the filter vertically (very gently or it may shatter)
it makes it a little easier to work on the top side then invert the filter so the flat you
just created sits on the bottom. Carefully cut off six or seven serrations from the edge
of the black ring holding the filter then do the same on the opposite side. Using a
craft knife, fine file or mini grinder make a very small flat in the centre of the ‘bald’
area where you have just removed the serrations then do the same on the opposite
side. Try the filter in one of the square slots for a snug fit. If the filter won’t slide
relatively easily into the slot, take a little more material off each side until it does fit.
You do not want the filter to be too loose or it may drop out of the holder in use. The
modified filter will now fit in any slot in the holder.
I am very grateful to KyBob who has sent me a wonderfully illustrated report on a
potential treasure site he has located. Like all good treasure hunters, KyBob uses a
range of devices to home in on the treasure. The above photo shows a correlation
between auras from a Canon EOS 350D and suspected gold and silver targets located
by dowsing, MFD (Molecular Frequency Discriminator), metal detector and
resistivity. For various reasons KyBob is unable to dig the targets until next spring
but with all the work he has done on this site he deserves great things when he returns
with his shovel.
Incidentally when using a low powered lens, requiring a gap between camera lens and
IR filter, KyBob advises taking pictures on cloudy days with no Sun. This reduces
the number of false reflections that can occur, a problem which resulted in Cokin
dropping their square IR filter. Sound advice and thanks again KyBob!
P007 720nm square Infrared filter. Cokin now only manufacture a round IR
filter, which will only work in its own slot next to the lens on strong targets. To use
this filter with the kit lens on small targets it is necessary to carefully cut or file two
small flats on opposite sides of the filter ring so it will slide into the square slots in the
holder.
Mount the holder onto the lens and fit the filter in the centre slot of the three square
filter slots in the holder (the slot nearest the lens is for a round filter). Set the camera
on automatic, no flash (that's the selector turned fully clockwise). Let the camera
autofocus through the filter. All other camera settings should be on automatic/default.
For best results the air temperature needs to be above 50 degrees F / 10 degrees C.
Shoot in daylight at right angles to or away from the Sun although the Sun does not
need to be shining. Good results can be obtained with the camera hand-held but
marginally better results might be achieved on small targets by mounting the camera
on a tripod/stand. The viewfinder must be kept covered either by the photographer’s
eye (hand held) or a black cover if tripod mounted.
Post process the images with
Arcsoft Photostudio (5.5) using the enhance
facility.
Please note: Canon have upgraded their sensor a number of times and Canon cameras
other than the two above may not work in the same way or at all for aura
photography. Also the internal IR blocking filter must not be removed.
The macro lens is optional for small targets or long distance but Sigma 105mm is the
recommended macro - most others have not been tested.
Can YOUR Digital Camera See Buried Treasure?
One of the most exciting recent developments in treasure hunting is aura photography
and among the most frequently asked questions is: can my model of camera see
auras? We know of a few cameras that definitely photograph auras and hope to add
others to our list from the vast number of makes and models out there, once we are
certain that they work. Meanwhile, here are some low cost ideas on testing your own
digital camera and please let us know if your camera can see buried treasure.
The basic requirements for testing are:
· A buried sample of either one ounce (30 grams) of relatively pure gold or two
ounces (60 grams) of relatively pure silver. By relatively pure we mean around
90% precious metal so 22 carat gold or sterling silver (92.5%) will be ideal but if
using 9 carat gold then you will need around 2.5 ounces (75 grams). Bury your
sample in open ground or a planter for at least 24 hours.
· Infrared filtering medium in the range 720nm to 1000nm. Digital cameras are
extremely sensitive to infrared radiation and have to be fitted with an internal
infrared blocking filter to prevent most infrared reaching the sensor. There is
much variation in the amount of external infrared filtering necessary to
photograph auras. Too little external infrared filtering produces false color
infrared photographs and too much filtering results in pitch black images. Auras
are photographed between false color and pitch black. The most reliable but more
expensive option for testing is to buy either a 720nm infrared filter, or a range of
filters, from a camera equipment supplier or Ebay. A minimal cost approach
would be to use the black leading ends from exposed processed color film, which
has infrared filtering characteristics (one sheet is approx 720nm; two sheets
approx 850nm and three sheets approx 1000nm). These are the film pieces that
were exposed to light (unless the film was loaded in a dark room, in which case
the leading end pieces will be clear) when the film was run out over the sprockets
during loading into the film camera. As most popular film is 35mm and some
lenses are larger, you may have to mount the film in a slide or between thin card
in which a suitable central aperture has first been cut.
· Fix your filter material in front of the lens (try snug fit and leaving an air/light
gap) then photograph your sample on a warm day, preferably above 13 deg. C / 55
deg. F with the Sun behind you. Adjust the level of filtering until you achieve a
dark image that you will need to process with enhance, fix or gamma increase
using photo editing software.
Cokin Infrared Filters
When I was first buying infrared filters, I was introduced to the Cokin Square filter
system by my local Jessops Camera Store and the holder with the square infrared
filter turned out to be ideal for aura photography, not only did it work well but the
ability to slide the filter easily in and out of its slot was a welcome bonus, when
framing a target. For some reason I placed the square filter in the centre slot of the
three slots available and as that worked that became my recommended filter position.
I was vaguely aware that Cokin also made a round infrared filter but didn’t take too
much interest until Bob, who was trying to replicate my system ended up with a round
filter instead of square and said that he couldn’t get it to work, presumably because
the filter fitted in its own slot next to the lens. After some discussion Bob trimmed his
round filter so that it would fit in the square slots as well as the round slot and that
produced some auras.
A little while later I had some correspondence with David who had repeatedly tried to
buy a square filter but ended up with round. There were several advertisements for
square filters in the UK so I attempted to obtain one for David and twice was sent a
round filter. Meanwhile I had been told by Cokin’s main agent in the UK that Cokin
no longer manufactured square infrared filters, only the round version. Apparently
this cut out the reflection between the external and internal filters which we actually
rely on to produce auras on weak targets with some lenses.
I have tested the round filter against the square filter and it fails to produce an aura,
when fitted in its own slot, with weak targets using the standard lens. However it can
be easily modified to fit the square slots, without interfering with its use in the round
slot and if so modified it produces exactly the same aura as the square filter when the
round filter ‘GLASS’ is in the very same position as the square filter.
As the round filter is stepped (the holding ring is 5mm or ¼ inch away from the
‘glass’) it can be fitted in two different ways in the last two slots furthest from the
lens. With the standard lens, the filter is most sensitive when it is fitted in the last slot
from the lens and orientated so the filter ‘glass’ is as far away from the lens as it can
be. If that position is too sensitive the filter can be moved to bring it closer to the
lens, where sensitivity will be reduced for each step closer to the lens. The round
filter seems to work in its own slot in low light conditions and when photographing
large targets.
Modifying the round filter
The object of the exercise is to make two flats exactly opposite each other so the filter
will slide into the narrower square filter slots – you only need to remove a tiny
amount of material. I used a Dremel type hobby drill with circular saw and grinder
for this but it should be fairly easy modification to make with a craft knife and/or fine
file. If you have a bench vice to grip the filter vertically (very gently or it may shatter)
it makes it a little easier to work on the top side then invert the filter so the flat you
just created sits on the bottom. Carefully cut off six or seven serrations from the edge
of the black ring holding the filter then do the same on the opposite side. Using a
craft knife, fine file or mini grinder make a very small flat in the centre of the ‘bald’
area where you have just removed the serrations then do the same on the opposite
side. Try the filter in one of the square slots for a snug fit. If the filter won’t slide
relatively easily into the slot, take a little more material off each side until it does fit.
You do not want the filter to be too loose or it may drop out of the holder in use. The
modified filter will now fit in any slot in the holder.
I am very grateful to KyBob who has sent me a wonderfully illustrated report on a
potential treasure site he has located. Like all good treasure hunters, KyBob uses a
range of devices to home in on the treasure. The above photo shows a correlation
between auras from a Canon EOS 350D and suspected gold and silver targets located
by dowsing, MFD (Molecular Frequency Discriminator), metal detector and
resistivity. For various reasons KyBob is unable to dig the targets until next spring
but with all the work he has done on this site he deserves great things when he returns
with his shovel.
Incidentally when using a low powered lens, requiring a gap between camera lens and
IR filter, KyBob advises taking pictures on cloudy days with no Sun. This reduces
the number of false reflections that can occur, a problem which resulted in Cokin
dropping their square IR filter. Sound advice and thanks again KyBob!
موضوع: مساعدة لو تكرمتوا .. ترجمة انجليزي الى عربي 
السبت أكتوبر 05, 2013 3:42 am
